Ullman
Sails Santana 20 Tuning Guide
Santana 20
Welcome to the
fun world of Santana 20 sailing. This tuning guide's purpose is to
help you set up your boat properly and to provide a tuning
reference. Boats vary as do sailing styles, conditions, and sailors.
Please use this guide as a base and modify it to fit your style and
what you find to be fast for your boat. If you have any questions or
comments, please call or e-mail us at the Ullman loft. We will be
happy to assist you and hear your tuning ideas.
Boat
Preparation
The goal here is
to have a boat that is fast, easy to sail and will not fail. Make
sure the keel, rudder and bottom are smooth and fair. This will
ensure good underwater flow. Set up the deck layout so it is
comfortable, functional and as simple as possible. This will
eliminate broken or poorly placed hardware hindering the crew. This
is very important so the crew can concentrate on the race and not
the boat. The next item is to make sure the mast and rigging are in
good working order and are as light, clean and streamlined as
possible. This will prevent failure and increase speed. The final
item is to have sails that are of current designs and not so worn
that their designed shape is no longer functional.
Rig Tuning
The goal of rig
tuning is to set the mast up so the mast is at the proper rake to
balance the helm, is centered in the boat and is set for the current
wind and wave conditions. To set the rake, tie a metal tape measure
to the main halyard, not the shackle, and raise it till it is two
blocked. Pull on enough backstay tension so the forestay is just
tight, without slack. Measure to the center of the transom where the
hull and the transom intersect near the water line. This rake number
is 31 feet. This rake can be adjusted with the forestay turnbuckle.
Once the rake is
set, the next project is to center the mast in the boat. Place a
mark on both rails, equidistant from the tack fitting, about 10
forward of the chainplates. This is a reference mark for centering
the mast. Hoist the tape measure on the spinnaker halyard till it is
two blocked. Measure to each reference mark and adjust the upper
shroud turnbuckles till the measurement number is the same.
After the mast is
centered, sight up the mast track on the aft side of the mast and
adjust the lower shrouds till the middle of the mast is in column
with the mast tip. The mast should now be centered and straight. The
next step is to use a Loos Model A tension gauge to measure the
shroud tensions. Set the shroud tensions to the following numbers;
Upper Shrouds: 33 (320 lbs.), Lower Shrouds: 33. The adjustable aft
lower tension should be set so the tensions are the same on both
sides of the boat and when they are in their maximum aft position
the mast has 3-4 of inverse pre-bend, approximately 11 on the
tension guage. Go sailing and site up the mast for the final rig
tune. The mast tip should remain centered on both tacks and adjust
the lower shroud tension so the mast is straight and remains in
column at the spreaders on both tacks.
Upwind
Mainsail Trim
Light Air: 0-5
Knots
The goal in these conditions is to keep the boat moving as fast as
possible at all times. Speed is more important than pointing. Set
the adjustable aft lower shrouds so the mast is perfectly straight
with a slight bit of backstay tension. Trim the mainsheet till the
top batten hooks 5 degrees to weather of centerline and then pull
enough backstay to twist the top batten till it is parallel with the
boom. Set the traveler so the boom is on the centerline of the boat
and there should be no boom vang tension in these conditions. Ease
the outhaul 1-2 from its maximum tight setting, 1 in flat water and
2 in choppy water. Set the cunningham with slight horizontal
wrinkles along the luff of the main. Adjust the traveler and the
mainsheet to keep the boat moving fast at all times.
Light to
Medium Air: 6-12 Knots
These are efficient and maximum power conditions. The boat should be
sailed flat and powered up to maximize speed and pointing. Tension
the aft lowers to invert the mast 1-2. Set the mainsheet and
backstay the same way as above. Set the cunningham so it is max
loose like above. Play the traveler in the puffs and lulls to keep
the boat flat. The crew should hike hard in the puffs!
Medium to
Heavy Air: 13-18 Knots
The Santana begins to become overpowered in these conditions and the
goal becomes to keep the boat flat and reduce leeway. Set the aft
lowers with 3-4 of inverse bend. Trim the main really hard and
tighten the backstay till the top batten twists 10-15 degrees from
parallel to the boom. Tighten the outhaul to its maximum setting and
tighten the cunningham to remove all luff wrinkles. Take all of the
slack out of the boom vang to hold down the boom. Play the traveler
to keep the boat flat and hike!
Heavy Air: 19+
Knots
As above, the goal is to keep the boat on its feet and to reduce
leeway. The mainsail should be as flat as possible. Set the aft
lowers to their maximum setting of 4 of inverse bend. Set the
mainsheet and backstay with 15-20 degrees of twist. The outhaul is
set at maximum tension and the cunningham is tight. Tighten the boom
vang to flatten the bottom of the main and keep the leech in
control. Drop the traveler to keep the boat as flat as possible and
hike!
Downwind
Mainsail Trim
The goal for
downwind main trim is a full sail and to keep it on the verge of
luffing at all times. Ease the aft lowers all the way forward and
ease the backstay so the mast is raked forward. Ease the outhaul
just enough to open up the foot, but not so much to loose projected
area, about 2-3. Ease the cunningham all of the way off and play the
vang so the top batten is parallel to the boom. Play the mainsheet
constantly to keep the main flowing.
Upwind Genoa
Trim
Light Air: 0-5
Knots
The goal in such light air is boat speed, keep it moving forward.
Set the genoa halyard so the luff is just smooth to provide a wider
steering groove. The foot of the genoa is trimmed 3-4 from the
shroud turnbuckles and the genoa leech is trimmed 2-3 from the
spreader tip. Set the leads to achieve this set up. Make sure the
leech and foot lines are completely eased. Trim the sheet in the
puffs and ease in the lulls.
Light to
Medium Air: 6-12 Knots
These conditions are maximum power and pointing conditions. Ease the
halyard so there are slight luff wrinkles to increase pointing. Set
the leads so the genoa foot is 1-2 from the shroud turnbuckle and
the leech is 2-3 from the spreader tip. Trim the sheet in the puffs
and ease it in the lulls.
Medium to
Heavy Air: 13-18 Knots
These conditions are approaching the top of the genoa's effective
range. Tighten the halyard to move the draft forward and flatten the
upper leech. Set the leads so the foot is tight against the shroud
turnbuckles and the leech is 4-6 from the spreader tip. Play the
sheet to keep the boat flat. In the big puffs, easing the sheet a
couple of inches is more effective than luffing the mainsail. Just
remember to trim it back in as soon as the puff ends.
Heavy Air: 19+
For most crews this is small jib wind. The only reason to have the
genoa up is if the waves are larger than the wind speed and if your
crew weight is very heavy. If this is the case, set it up as above.
We recommend using the new inboard class jib tracks for the small
jib. The tighter sheeting angle and smaller jib increases pointing
and improves crew work. These two items far out weigh the small loss
in sail size of the old style 110% jibs. Tighten the jib halyard
just enough to remove the wrinkles. Set the leads so the top
telltales break slightly before the bottom telltales. You can also
use the leech battens as a guide. The top batten should twist open
5-10 degrees and the middle batten should be twisted 0-5 degrees.
Place tape marks on the spreaders to use as a trim reference to line
the leech of the jib with. Trim the jib between 3-5 in from the
outboard end of the spreader. If the water is rough and the wind is
at the bottom of the jib range, you may have to power up the
mainsail to keep the boat moving fast.
Spinnaker Trim
The Santana is a
blast to sail downwind and rewards its crew for good spinnaker trim
and crew work. The halyard should be raised as high as possible to
stabilize the spinnaker and increase projected area. Play the pole
height and trim constantly. Set the pole height so the spinnaker
curls on the luff just above the half-height. This is in the top
third where the top of the horizontal panel meets the bottom of the
radial panels. If the pole is too high, the curl will be too low in
the spinnaker and if the pole is too low the curl will be too high
in the spinnaker. It is not as important, but if it is easy, adjust
the inboard end of the pole to keep the pole 90 degrees to the mast.
Play the guy and the sheet to keep the spinnaker on the verge of
collapsing with a slight luff curl. Remember, an undertrimmed
spinnaker is faster than an overtrimmed spinnaker.
The trimmer and
the skipper should be in constant communication while talking about
wind pressure in the spinnaker. In the puffs, the skipper bears off
and the trimmer squares the pole back and eases the sheet. As the
pressure eases or the wind lightens, the skipper heads up and the
trimmer eases the pole forward while trimming the sheet. This should
be a constant S course to maximize VMG downwind. The foredeck crew
should be looking aft and helping the skipper keep the boat in the
most wind velocity and clear air.
Crew Weight
Placement
Upwind
We recommend sailing with a combined crew weight of 490-600 lbs. The
crew should sit as close together as possible. This concentrates the
weight and reduces the pitching of the boat. The skipper should
straddle the traveler bar and use it to hook his/her feet under it
for balance. The middle and forward crew should sit together just
forward of the skipper at the widest part of the boat. They should
hike with their legs over the side when on a tack for a long time
and face in during close quarters or when tacking a lot. Use your
crew weight to roll tack the boat. In light air, especially in
waves, it is fast to have the foredeck crew sit below deck to lower
the weight, reduce windage and increase the visibility of the
skipper.
Downwind
The skipper should sit wherever he/she is comfortable and can see,
but near the traveler bar. The trimmer needs to be to weather to see
the spinnaker. The foredeck sits on the leeward side just aft of the
cabin and moves side to side and fore and aft to keep the boat
balanced. In light air, the foredeck can stand in the companionway.
Use your crew weight to steer the boat to reduce rudder movement.
Heel to leeward to head up and to weather to bear off. A roll to
weather in the jibe helps steer the boat and rotate the spinnaker.
Crewwork
The Santana is a
crew-sensitive boat. Practice and good crewwork produce good race
results and make sailing more fun.
Skipper
The skipper's job is to steer the boat as fast as possible at all
times. The skipper is responsible for main trim, the backstay,
traveler and calling the boom vang and outhaul adjustments. The
Ullman mainsail has a spreader window in the luff of the main so the
skipper can call the distance the genoa leech is from the spreader
tip. The skipper should help with strategy before the start and
leave the tactics to the crew during the race except for the close
quarter boat tactics and mark roundings.
Middle Crew
The upwind job is to help with tactics and call boat speed relative
to other boats. During tacks, he/she trims in the headsail and hands
it off to the forward crew to cross sheet on the windward winch. The
middle crew can sometimes help the skipper with the backstay
adjustment. Downwind the middle crew trims the spinnaker and does
the twings in the jibes. On the spinnaker douse, he/she releases the
spinnaker halyard and trims the headsail around the leeward mark.
Forward Crew
The upwind job is to call puffs, waves and crossing situations with
other boats. He/she also fine tunes the headsail sheet after the
tacks, adjusts the boom vang, outhaul, cunningham and the aft lower
shrouds. At mark roundings he/she must set the pole, hoist the
spinnaker, stow the pole and gather the spinnaker. The downwind job
is to jibe the pole and keep the boat in the most velocity on the
race course. The foredeck job is the hardest on the boat and
requires the most practice and crew support. The better you get at
it the better your boat handling will be. This will lead to better
results and give you the pleasure of passing people at mark
roundings.
Summary
The key to this
tuning guide is not just memorizing these settings and
recommendations, but understanding how they work and how they
influence each other. The goal is to be able to feel that something
is wrong and having the knowledge to quickly fix the problem to keep
the boat moving fast. We design the Ullman sails to be easy to trim
and very forgiving so you can concentrate on race tactics and
strategy instead of sail trim. If you have any further questions or
would like to order new sails please call Ullman Sails and ask for
Charlie Ogletree in the One Design department.
Tuning Guide Provided by: Ullman Sails
www.ullmansails.com
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