Ullman
Sails J 105 Tuning Guide
Mast Rake
Mast Rake
dictates the amount of weather helm when sailing upwind. The J-105,
being underpowered up to 10 knots, should be set up for as much rake
as the class allows. The increased rake will induce weather helm,
making the boat much more responsive and easier to drive in light to
medium conditions. The three settings that determine mast rake are:
·
"J" measurement: Your "J" measurement should be the
Maximum that the class allows. 13' 6". You may have to customize
your mast chocks to get maximum "J". We have found that most J-105's
need to almost let the Spars lay against the aft partners at the
deck to get to Maximum "J".
·
Mast Butt location: Depending on how close you get
your mast to maximum "J" at the deck determines exactly where the
mast butt should be located. The mast butt should be set between 10
1/4 inches and 10 1/2 inches from the bulkhead behind the mast.
Bulkhead position may vary from boat to boat. The easiest way to
check mast butt position is to check your prebend with the forestay
set at max class allowance. With normal shroud tension your spar
should have zero prebend. If your spar has reverse bend then you
have placed your butt position too far forward. If your spar has any
prebend at all then you would want to move the butt forward until
prebend disappears. Mast butt position is very critical and if you
are not sure, please contact the Ullman Sails Loft.
·
Headstay length: Set for maximum class allowed.
42.65'. Once your forestay is set, you need not adjust it further.
Shroud Tensions: (Use PS 10 Loos Red Guage)
·
Before setting shroud tension, it is very important that you make
sure your spar is centered at the hounds. To center the spar first
measure from the forestay pin back to a point on each side of the
toe rail adjacent the spar and mark with permanent marker. Then
attach a steel tape measure to the center Jib halyard. Raise the jib
halyard a few feet and cleat. Then measure to each rail, adjusting
each upper shroud until the measurement is the same on each side.
·
Once the spar is centered, tighten the uppers to (30) on your Loos
Guage. Tighten Intermediate shrouds to (12). The lowers should be
slack. (approx. "0" on the gauge). Your rig is now dock tuned for 0
to 8 knots. With the correct mast butt position, headstay length,
"J" measurement, and shroud tensions, your J-105 will have the
correct mast bend and forestay sag to accommodate your new set of
Ullman Sails through a wide range of conditions.
·
Adjusting shroud tensions for different conditions. Through years of
testing and sail development, we have simplified J-105 rig tuning
into an easy to understand guide that will help you get excellent
performance out of your boat. However by studying the rationale
behind our tuning, you will understand why we do it. This should
help increase your performance even further.
·
Upper shrouds: Upper shroud tension controls forestay
sag and mast tip leeward sag.
·
Lowers shrouds: Lower shroud tension controls leeward
mast sag and to some extent, lower mast bend.
·
Intermediate shrouds: Intermediate shroud tension
controls mid to upper mast leeward sag.
· Backstay: Backstay tension controls mid to
upper mast bend and forestay sag. (Tension)
Leeward mast
sag
The J-105, being
inherently under-powered below the 10-12 knot range, must be powered
up every way possible in the lighter conditions. We have found that
if tuned correctly, "Leeward Mast Sag" is a formidable weapon under
12 knots. Leeward mast sag has two important effects on the sail
shape and the slot between your jib and mainsail. First, leeward
mast sag will add luff curve to the mainsail, making a more powerful
shape for the lighter conditions.
Secondly, and
most important, leeward mast sag narrows the slot between the leech
of the jib and luff of the main. This in turn increases the pressure
between the main and jib which increases lift on the leech of the
main. More lift. More power and speed. Leeward mast sag is very much
like barber hauling the jib. To achieve the correct Leeward sag, you
should sight up the mast slot while sailing up wind. Although the
tuning guide chart will get you very close to the correct sag, the
smoothness of the sag should be checked by eye.
A quarter turn
off on the lower can make a difference in the smoothness of your
mast sag. The leeward mast sag should be a smooth curve starting
from the gooseneck and continuing to the hounds where the uppers and
forestay attach to the spar. U/S sails perform best with approx 1"
1/4'' of leeward mast sag from 0-8 knots and 1/2" of sag from 8 to
15 knots. Once the boat starts to become overpowered, the spar
should be tuned as straight athwart ship as possible, eliminating
any leeward mast sag.
Mast Tip Sag /
Forestay Sag
The upper shroud
tensions will control head stay sag and mast tip sag through a wide
range of wind conditions. (30) (loos gauge) on your upper shrouds
will give you enough headstay sag to keep your Ullman Jib powerful
in the 0-8 conditions. At the same time, (30) is just enough tension
to keep the tip of the mast from falling to leeward. When your mast
tip leans to leeward, you are essentially dumping wind from the top
of the mainsail, which turns the power down in the mainsail. Mast
tip sag under 12 knots is slow. Your lowers and intermediates should
be set for 1 1/4'' of leeward mast sag. Approx. (12) on
intermediates and -0 on lowers.
As the breeze
builds to the 8-16 range, your jib will begin to become too round
and full for optimum performance. You will also notice that your
mast tip will begin to sag to leeward which is detrimental for the
mainsail both in power and pointing. To compensate for the windier
conditions, simply tighten your uppers to (41) (Loos Gauge). This
tighter upper setting will once again give you the correct headstay
sag and mast tip sag for optimum sail shape. Your lowers and
intermediates should be set for 1/2'' of leeward mast sag. Approx.
(17) on the intermediates. (0) on the lowers.
Once the breeze
has built to 17+ you will once again tighten the uppers to (51),
giving you correct head stay sag and mast tip sag for optimum sail
shape. At this point the lowers and intermediates should be set for
zero mast sag. Approx (22) on the intermediates and (5 )on the
lowers.
·
Rig Tuning Synopsis: Simplicity is the key to maintain
top boat speed in all wind strengths. U/S sail shapes have been
developed to perform through the entire sailing wind range, while
requiring very little changes in your rig. Three simple settings on
your uppers, lowers, and intermediates with a total variance of two
turns or less per shroud is all that is needed
|
Rig Tension Guide Using a Loos Gauge |
|
0-7
knots |
Adjust |
8-16
knots |
Adjust |
17+
knots |
|
Uppers
|
+1.5
turn |
|
+2 turn |
|
|
30 |
|
41 |
|
51 |
|
Inter-mediates |
+.75
turn |
|
+.75
turn |
|
|
12 |
|
17 |
|
22 |
|
Lowers |
+.5 turn |
|
+.5 turn |
|
|
-0 |
|
0 |
|
5 |
|
0-7
knots is "Base" setting; adjust tighter for more wind
|
77 & 89 Sq.
Meter Spinnaker Trim Guide
· We do not recommend using twings.
·
Spinnaker halyard should be set 1.5' from top of mast at all times.
·
Mark Halyard accordingly.
·
Tack line should be trimmed from 1.5' to 4' from end of pole,
depending on amount of breeze.
·
When the breeze is above 10 knots, ease the tack line from the 1.5'
mark until the luff of the sail starts to project to windward.
·
If you ease the tack line more than this amount, the sail will
become unstable.
·
Generally speaking, the more wind and the flatter the water surface,
the more you can ease the tack line.
·
Leech and luff lines do not need adjustment for at least a half
season of racing.
·
Backstay completely loose.
·
When sailing in chop, roll jib up tightly and cleat. Then pull jib
sheets tight and cleat. This will keep the rig from bouncing around.
· Most 105s tend to keep their crew weight too far forward
when sailing downwind in over 12 knots. Crew should sit just forward
of cockpit.
Tuning Guide Provided by: Ullman Sails
www.ullmansails.com
|